Tuesday, May 5, 2015
Revival
As most are aware, I'm not a native Minnesotan. While I lost the majority of my accent years ago (give or take a few Southernisms that won't die), my soft spot for Southern cooking has only deepened this far North of my birth state of Arkansas. Both sides of my family are Southern-based, Arkansas and Texas firmly represented on my Mother's side, and Tennessee and the Carolinas gracing my Dad's.
We weren't a fried chicken family. I didn't grow up with Sunday suppers of the bird. But I've been eating pimento cheese since childhood and I've eaten hoppin' john nearly every New Years Day of my life for good luck. A jar of chow chow is bought as soon as we land in Tennessee, and I even made a bastardized version of it this winter when my Uncle Buck visited and requested the condiment (no, Uncle Buck, they do not have chow chow in Minnesota).
All this to be said, I've been waiting for the Revival opening with equal parts excitement and anxiety. My attachment to the sides is more acute than to the main attraction, Everybody loves fried chicken. And everybody has expectations when they eat fried chicken. But only a Southerner has expectations (a lifetime of dipping tortilla chips into Ruth's pimento cheese) when it comes to the sides.
The pimento cheese and meat plate is a sizable sharing portion for $13. We could have easily shared it with a table of 4, instead I was thrilled to bring home a serving or two, which I will not share with anyone. My night was made when I saw the small heap of chow chow beside the pickles. A sweet, vinegary condiment of shredded cabbage and celery seed (or maybe it was caraway seed in this version?), a bit of that bite perfectly pairs with the rich, creamy goodness of classic pimento cheese. And the pimento cheese. Y'all, there's nothing fancified about this pile of glorious goop. I was worried that the Revival version would pale in comparison to my own recipe. But honestly, I believe I have to admit defeat on this one. I could have happily made a meal of the cheese and chow chow, and I'm sure at some point, I probably will. Pimento cheese is rich and needs a bit of tang, so the pickles and chow chow and a dash of pepper vinegar made for many perfect bites. The andouille addition was nice for snacking, but the pimento cheese is the star. The meat felt a bit superfluous, but maybe I have friends who love andouille and want to focus on that, leaving the pimento cheese to me. That could be the basis for a great friendship.
Revival offers three fried chicken varieties, classic Southern, Tennessee Hot, and gluten free, along with several traditional Southern dishes. The low country chicken bog with clams and sausage would have called to me on a wintery night, I'm sure. I always pick whatever is labeled as spicy, so the Tennessee Hot fried chicken was my choice. Offering a welcome kick to crunchy, perfectly moist chicken, it'll be tough for me to ever order anything other than that gem. Along with the chicken, I ordered sides of collards and hoppin john. Both of the sides were great, with a slight edge given to the collards because the combination of collards and the delicious Revival hot sauce was simply delicious. We split an order of perfect biscuits, all fluff and butter, with a tin of sorghum butter to further gild the lily. The sides run $4-$6 and the 2 piece chicken is only $7.50. Split a 1/2 bird (five pieces) for only $15. I'd be tempted to get a half bird, or even a full, next time, for the sake of leftovers.
The Revival space, housed in the former Corner Table home, is bright and unfussy. Despite recent Twitter stories of a line out the door, we arrived at 6 pm on Tuesday and were able to sit immediately. It was a packed, lively space, but not too noisy to still have a conversation. With that kind of crowd on a week night, I'm sure a table on a weekend evening requires a longer wait (no reservations, and they insist on a full party before seating guests). But if you're hoping to pop in and experience this delicious new addition, a weeknight would be an easy bet, especially if you're comfy eating at the bar.
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